A Weekend Away and My Last Weekend in Saudi...until I come back

     Last weekend, my co-worker announced she had joined a women's basketball team in Jeddah and would be spending every single weekend in Jeddah.  For some reason, I got caught up in the excitement and promptly announced I was going too.  She could do her thing, but because there were no seats left on the bus from base, we agreed to figure out alternative transport to Jeddah together.  We found 2 more teachers going and managed to book an SUV for 200 SAR.  The bus was no longer on the table!  One of the other teachers, whose husband lives in Jeddah, asked if I wanted a ride back....REALLY?  HELLLLLLS YEAH!  So, I booked a hotel in Jeddah, breakfast included, walking distance to a HUGE souk, and close to everything else I might need.
     Zantika's friend was out of town until Friday, so she booked a last minute room at my place.  We dropped off our bags in our AWESOME rooms, and headed down to the restaurant for supper as they were about to call prayer...again....We paid a pretty penny for a pretty awesome buffet supper and huge dessert table :-)

View in the morning from the restaurant.

    After supper we headed out to the souk and shopped until we dropped about 10:30.  Even though the beds were hard, I slept like a baby!  Traveling with my mini-humidifier and mini fan makes a HUGE difference.  At breakfast in the morning, we saw a mommy cat and her little kitten looking at us with hunger in their eyes.  The buffet was about to close so they got turkey sausages.  The next morning, I made sure they had some sandwich meat and eggs.  While these 2 were eating, another mommy came up, so I went back in and snagged some more food for her.  EVERYBODY eats when they come to my house!

Mommy and baby.

View from my room :-)

     On my last morning, I went for a walk with phone in hand and took pictures of the historic sections of Jeddah.  The Saudi are very quick to tear down, but I was glad to see they were preserving the ancient architecture.  It was really amazing.

     I was able to make contact with my friend and co-worker Elizabeth and her husband begrudgingly agreed to drive us around to shop.  I was able to pick up some trinkets for my kids and found a FABU crafting supplies/sewing store.  On the way home we stopped at LuLu Market and I discovered my new hard to find go to place.  Life is good.  I am heading home and hope to meet up with as many people as I can while I am home!

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS!

    Because they issued me the wrong visa type, and because that visa was in my stolen passport, I am being flown home for the winter break.  School ends on Dec. 21, but the first available flight is Dec. 23.  No problem.  Zantika and I will get a ride to Jeddah on the 21st and spend a day and a half shopping in Jeddah.  Unfortunately they have me flying Saudi Air so I will not have a cocktail until I hit JFK for my 4 hour layover.  I have booked a flight an car so I can swing by Arkansas and see dad.  I told Mary to buy whatever ingredients I need to make whatever he wants to eat.  Aside from Roladen, not sure what he will ask for.
   So, I have made the trip to Ikea and I have been to Jeddah twice.  The first trip was to Ikea, the second to the embassy to replace my STOLEN passport.  My friend's husband was able to pick up my passport and bring it to me when he came to visit his wife.  The road to Jeddah is down the mountain and I am just glad I didn't have to drive it!

Sheep on their way to "market".

More sheep.

Sneaky baboon.

Roadside baboons.

Jeddah

Road to Meccah.

I am not allowed in Meccah.

      It is about a 2 hour drive and I took the bus the last time.  The Saptco bus reminds me of the ADO bus in Mexico.  They have buses that make the trip from base each weekend, but I have had no cash and too many things to do at home.  Payday was a tremendous relief as I no longer had to beg an allowance/loan from co-workers.  

The drive to "town" aka Taif, is about 25 minutes.  On the way to town, there are literally 5-6 amusement parks.  I wish I was kidding.  They make me laugh every single time I see them.  No idea why Taif seems to be the amusement capital of Saudi, but there are TONS of parks, playgrounds, and amusement parks.

     

     Once I got paid, it was off to Taif for shopping.  I was able to get a co-worker to explain to the phone guy my wallet was stolen so he allowed me to recharge my phone.  I was also able to stock the fridge for Thanksgiving.  I cooked supper for about 5 of us.  One of the teachers procured TWO frozen 7 pound turkeys, as they didn't have anything bigger.  I had my students make thankful birds to bring home.  Thanksgiving is a totally non-religious holiday!

This is the view of the school yard from the 2nd floor of the girls' building.

I have done crafts with all of my classes now, and tie them into one of the stories we are reading.  The 7th and 8th grades no longer get art classes so they are happy to do the projects.

Paper machete heads.

This is a bird that comes by almost every day to say hi and beg for seeds.

Could not pass this up!

 Building in Taif.

Really old buildings.  There are pieces of stone buildings all over Taif.

     So, I will be home for the holidays and I have booked my flights to see my dad.  After everything I have been through, glad to not spend Christmas and New Year in Saudi.  Before I go, I will briefly mention that I finally got sick in Taif.  I wound up with an ear infection and tonsillitis.  Fortunately, the biggest perk about working for the military hospital compound, is that medical is literally across the street.  Thursday morning I was able to leave "teacher training" about 9am and head to medical.  A long wait at pharmacy was lessened by replacing my lost base ID (yes, the hits just keep coming) and getting my second of 3 Hep B booster (?) shots.  Home and in bed by noon.  Slept until 4:30, up to eat turkey soup, nap, more turkey soup and evening antibiotic, then back to bed by 9.  Feeling a bit better today, but my chest feels like a monkey is sitting on it.  Hoping it is not becoming pneumonia. 

Honeymoon is SOOOOOO over!

     I was finally getting my act together.  I was getting caught up, figuring out the system, and had survived my first end of term.  So, after school on Sunday, trying to shop on the "weekend" is INSANE!, Zantika and I headed to the "home" store to get the shelving/storage items I needed to get everything organized.  We first went to the stationary store.  We waited half an hour for the place to open, as it was closed for prayer.  My wallet zipper has not been working well, so I mentioned that it was way past time to get a new wallet, while I was putting my wallet in my purse.  We then walked to the "home" store, having found an empty shopping cart in the street.  I pulled a wipe out of my purse to wipe the handle, and had to move my wallet to get to it.  (I think you know where this is headed).  When we arrived at the store, I left Zantika with the cart and headed upstairs with my purse over my shoulder and under my arm.
     While I was upstairs searching the very cramped aisles for exactly what I needed, I was pushed and bumped and jostled by 2-3 women in full abaya/hijab/niqab.  They were pushing past me, crowding me, and basically blocking whatever aisle I tried to go down.  When I went back downstairs, I mentioned what had occurred.  I was being rushed to leave the store because OF COURSE it was f'ing prayer time AGAIN!  I did NOT want to have to wait for the store to reopen to pick up the last few things I needed so I rushed around to get my last few things.  I had brought a big Ikea bag to put my larger purchases in and spent time arguing with the clerk and bagger about not putting it in MORE plastic bags.  When it came time to pay...no wallet.  My receipt said I had checked out at 5:44 pm.  Zantika was kind enough to lend me the cash.
      The clerk, manager, and security guard all started telling me I had to leave so they could close for prayer.  I explained I needed to check for my wallet but they told me no.  They had turned off all the lights so it probably would not have been possible.  They refused to deal with the issue of my wallet in order to close for prayer.  I was forced to sit outside and wait for the store to re-open in order to actually search for my wallet.  When I was unable to find it, and I was able to find someone to translate I thought it had been stolen, they told me, I shit you not, "No problem,  we will contact you if we find it.  You must have lost it, because NOBODY steals ANYTHING in Saudi.  This just does NOT happen here."
      The manager had the workers search the store and reported that it was not there.  He also had someone, allegedly, view the video and then told me they saw nothing.  I was lead to believe they did not even see me on the cameras.  REALLY?!?!  Yeah, because there are SOOOOOO many uncovered white women in Saudi with red hair, I just blend right into the crowd.  While we were waiting, it was time for prayer AGAIN!  They tried to usher me out of the store and I refused to leave until they had at least called the police so I could file a report in order to replace my passport.  Yes, my wallet contained my cash, my passport, and all my credit/debit cards.  It also contained the Iqama number I need to refill my phone.  I had tried to fill it earlier, but was told the "system was down" and there was nothing they could do.  Did I mention that they kept telling me, "No problem, we will contact you," but they had NOT taken my contact information?
      They FINALLY called the police.  When the very young, very new, very junior officer arrived, he spoke not a word of English.  The store manager translated some of what was going on, so the newbie called his supervisor.  The supervisor told me to go to the police station to file a report.  They do not carry reports in their squad cars.  Oh yeah, and I would have to take a cab to get there.  After I screamed, "ARE YOU KIDDING ME?  I HAVE TO PAY TO TAKE A CAB TO FILE A THEFT REPORT?  WITH WHAT?  THEY GOT MY WALLET!  The manager hailed a cab, gave the driver cash and directions and sent us off.
      When we got to the police station we were ushered into a room and told to wait.  I had tried to explain that I needed to file a report and they just kept saying, "wait".  The newbie arrived, explained what I needed, and they told me I was at the wrong station to file a report.  no words....  They found a guy to translate for them and anytime I got a bit vocal or loud he told me to be quiet.  YES!  I finally told him, in no uncertain terms, "If you tell me to shut up one more time, I will snap you in half!"  The supervisor showed up and told them to take the report, but they refused and called us a cab.  I refused to get into the cab because the supervisor kept telling me here.  Zantika finally got me into the cab and we were taken to a police station that was one block from the scene of the crime....really (VERY HEAVY SIGH)
     We were turned over to a guy with 3 stars on his shoulder, and told he would take care of it.  He put us in an office, offered us bottled water, and left.  He showed up quite a while later with someone how apparently spoke passable English.  I again explained what had happened and he said they would check the store tapes.  He also said it was highly unlikely my wallet had been stolen, as that was very rare in Saudi.  Was I sure I did not leave it at home or drop it?  After forever, the 3 star captain came back to say there was nothing on the tapes, but they all agreed, in part to shut me up and to get rid of me, they would take a report saying I had lost my wallet, probably outside of the store.  I had not eaten, had no water, was tired.  The police did finally take my phone number, after insisting and yelling at them they should, at about 10:55pm.  We got home at 11:30pm.
     When I went to school the next day, exhausted, I was useless.  I had gotten home, taken a shower, and realized that, because I did not have my phone with my during all the above, I had to get online and put a lock on all my credit cards, etc.  Zantika had notified the vice-principal the night before, as well as the principal, so we would have an excuse when we were late the next day.  The vice-principal came in to check on me and I lost it.  The principal took my class assignments for the day and sent me home to contact the embassy.  My wifi chose that day to not work.  I did my laundry and then went to bed.
     I was finally able to get a good connection about 6pm.  I went online and followed the directions to apply for a replacement through the embassy in Jeddah.  I was told they would NOT accept a handwritten copy, it had to be done online.  I filled that bastard in about 10 times, each time getting the response that I did not HAVE a passport to report lost or stolen....FUCKING REALLY?!?!  I did manage to make an appointment for Wed. to go to the embassy and fill out the application for a new one.  We managed to get a human on the phone who said they would take a written copy of the writing was clear and legible....no problem.  I borrowed SAR 1000 for things like food and water.
     So, SAR 78 for the bus round-trip to Jeddah, SAR 513 for a new passport, a lost day of work, and a LOT of tears, I should have a new passport in 2 weeks.  I was very fortunate in that one of the teachers has a husband who lives in Jeddah.  He was kind enough to pick me up, take me to the embassy, explain all the ropes, wait until I was finished, drive me to the grocery store containing imported stuff, and then drop me off back at the bus station.  With a week like this, chocolate chip cookies are a must, not a want!
     The day after this happened, I informed the principal, that because I was being forced to leave the country and return home in December to obtain a new passport, I might not be coming back.  They had issued me a wrong visa so I was being forced to take that shitass 14 hour flight AGAIN.  I had hoped I would be able to go to Bahrain like last time, but nope, it was the USA or bust.
     My current flight to the US is set for Dec. 27.  There is NO WAY IN HELL I am spending Christmas in Saudi, so fingers crossed, I can change the flight to the day after school gets out Dec. 21.  I will have to be back Jan. 6.
     It has taken a lot out of me these last few days.  I survived cancer, but I knew what I was up against.  I knew the enemy.  Here, the enemy hides behind coverings and Saudi culture.  I came to realize, I was not that upset about the wallet, or replacing everything, but rather, in the way I was treated by everyone involved.  I am still being asked if I am sure I didn't just misplace it because that just doesn't happen in Saudi.  It took me 5.5 HOURS to file a fucking police report and I had to FORCE them to take my fucking phone number....really?

Did I Mention the Weather is AMAZING??

   After 3 weeks, I made it to Ikea!  I bought a new bed, 2 mattresses (they are foam and one was on clearance, they are not very tall, so I bought the 2nd one), bedding for my NEW FULL-SIZE bed, a nightstand, a floor lamp, a coffee table, and a bookshelf.  I will post pictures when I finish unpacking my stuff that I reclaimed from Riyadh...another story.  I am beginning to settle in, and am down to just the last few little things I need to be fully at home.  Last night I bought my FIRST real coffee maker overseas and a new 32" TV, so I can actually see what I am streaming from my 13" laptop.  I am SUPER happy I spent the $$ to buy the slimmer, lighter, sleeker laptop as I actually take it to school with me most days.

That is my REAL SIZE coffee cup :-)

     I still need to buy some organizer things so I can put everything in its place, and have a place for everything.  I like to say that I live in a home that is homey, lived in, and organized chaotic at times.

     SCHOOL!  School had started before I had even arrived.  I had been told before I left that I would be teaching middle school science....no comment.  I did not get the books ahead of time, and good thing, because the day AFTER I arrived in Taif, I was informed that I would be teaching middle school English Language Arts.  I told the principal that I was bummed as I had planned to teach the kids how to blow shit up.  She must have thought I was kidding, because she laughed.
     I received both 10 pound (?) textbooks for 7th and 8th grade ELA the day before I started teaching.  I was also given the smaller workbooks that accompany these behemoths.  I was told to get my lesson plans in by the end of the week and to make sure I assigned homework, etc.  Also, I had to get online and start posting my welcome letter, grades, and other notes to parents....really?  For anyone who cares, they are teaching according to this (whackass) system in the US, called "Common Core" standards.  I dare you to google it and just try to make sense of it.  Fortunately, they gave me sample lesson plans to coincide with what they wanted from me each week.  Yeah, it didn't help.
     I spent the first 3 weeks I was here in pure survival mode.  They kept telling me to start entering grades...they didn't have me listed in the system, or they had not assigned me classes in the system...can't do what I cannot access...one less stresser for the next 22 minutes....LOL  I teach 7th and 8th grade ELA.  Because this is Saudi, at this age, the boys and girls are in separate classrooms and separate buildings.  My first class is grade 7 boys, and the admin is in the girls' building, so I camp out in the boys building.
     For my second period (my first is "teacher prep time" and I usually finish my coffee and eat breakfast, check email, etc.) I have 25 7th grade boys in a room that is too small.  I liken it to trying to herd cats.  They were the cause of my rant a while back about assigning punishment homework that I then had to grade.  I did not actually grade it, I marked it to the degree it was complete.  They pissed me off again, so I had them write a 2 page paper on why they should pay attention in class (so as not to waste my time), and when they had all turned them in, I immediately ripped them up and tossed them out in front of them.  Mouths agape, they demanded to know what I was doing and why I had done what I did.  I simply told them, that is what it feels like to have someone waste their time.  (Wicked grin).
     My 3rd period is free and then I babysit the same 7th grade boys for lunch.  My "afternoon" is 3 periods in a row.  The first class is 4th period 7th grade girls.  I go out of the building, up the hill, up two flights of stairs - did I mention we are at about 2700 feet?, and arrived sweating and panting.  There are only 10 of them.  They are better behaved, but their grades tend to be lower than the boys.  My second to last period is 8th grade girls.  There are 7 of them, and getting them to do work is like pulling teeth.  This is Saudi.  Women are less than men, and women are told to concern themselves with finding a rich husband.  In Saudi, the man pays for everything and any money she earns is all hers to keep.
     My last period is 8th grade boys.  There are supposed to be 8 of them, but one boy's parents pulled him out so he could go with them on his father's annual leave from work.  I don't miss him, as it was like he was never really there to begin with.  I think is GPA is like 8%.  Did you do your homework? Shrug.  Are you planning to turn in your paper late for partial credit?  Shrug.  One less body to keep track of.  My total is 50 students.

     Yesterday was end of term, so we had to get all of our grades in.  I was told to do it, but it wasn't clear what I was to do.  I did my first set of marks (for homework that I simply checked as complete or incomplete) was wrong as everything had to have a number value.  Ok, 50 entries later, I was told that 1 or 2 points was not enough.  Ok, I went back and changed all 50 marks (times 2 for each student as I was told that there had to be 2 per week).  So, every time I entered a set of grades, I was told the point values were wrong or the type of assignment was wrong, or I didn't explain what the assignment was well enough in the program... I added it up and I think it took about 2 hours total of my time for them to lecture and correct me so I would do it their way.  If they had told me what their way was the first damned time, I would have done it that way the first damned time....(very heavy sigh).
     My week last week was hell (see above) and I spent HOURS working on simply getting all my grades collected and entered.  On Wednesday morning, I came in already wiped and stressed to find a huge mess in the teacher's room.  My WTF? was quickly explained to me by one of the other teachers, as the result of monkeys getting into the room (the cleaners left the windows open, not just unlocked) and the teacher who took TOTAL possession of the actual teacher's desk in the room, was apparently the source of the food supply.  Peanuts and a cup of coffee.  This is the teacher who "recites" (read sings....they say they do not "sing" but rather "recite"...sounds hella like singing to me) the Qaran so loudly that I cannot drown her out.
     She proceeded to start lecturing me on the evils of keeping food in my work area and in the room after work.  I just looked at her.  I informed her that my food is gone (in my tummy) before I leave, any extra stuff is locked in my locker, and the source of the mess was, in fact, her food.  That only seems to have made her more angry and she got louder and more adamant in her lecturing.  I plugged in my headphones and gave her the palm.  NOT EVEN!  NO MOOD!  I then received another talking to about getting my grades into he system.  I told them to stop interrupting me while I was entering grades.  Thursday (my Friday) could not come soon enough, but that only made things worse, because grades were due by the end of the day...I did what I could and walked away in utter defeat.  I told my coworker it was a good thing they messed up my visa or I might have left to Oman for a bender and not returned.  Two words...retail therapy! (see tv and coffee maker pictured above).
     While I was wasting my time, I mean standing door duty, this guy came up to see if we would let him get into the trash.

 Nope, not on my watch.

     I feel confident that I can do this, now that I know what the hell they want in the first place.  I have my books, a basic template for making lesson plans, an idea of how long it takes to finish a unit, how many assignments to give per week, and how many points each should have.  If they had just told me this the first damned time, I would not be pulling out my hair!  These are the days I hear the chardonnay actually calling me from another country!

     The weather is truly amazing.  Never too hot, always a breeze, it only rains for minutes, and it rains every month.  As to missing my old job, the only thing I truly miss is the pay thing. I would cash my check, hand them back most of the cash, and they would wire it home.  I make lots more now, but I can't seem to get it to my US accounts as easily.  I cannot have another teacher send the money because NFCU does not have a SWIFT code for international transfers.  Western Union said they could only send to a person, and not a bank.  But my grades are not in the system...LOL

     

My FABU costume I was not allowed to wear in public...:-(  Made my roomie say trick-or-treat and gave her candy...not the same

     

It is a 10 minute walk UPHILL to get to work.  Glad the weather is amazing.

     My day starts at 7:15.  I walk up the mountain and then up the hill and stairs, to the girls building to sign in.  No fingerprint scanner here, just good old paper and pen.  My first period is free and I enjoy the empty room for coffee and email or candy crush...shhhhh  My last class ends at 1:30pm, but I cannot let the 8th grade boys out until the boys who want to pray in the common area are finished praying.  I then trudge up the hill to stand door duty (see above monkey pics) and then leave about 2pm.  Sounds easy, but I do work at home as well.  Any grading I do not finish, any lesson plans to be created, any downloading/printing, is "homework" for the teacher.  I tell my students, you have to write 3 pages, I have to grade 150 pages.  Ohhhhhh.....not so bad for them.

     I used to come home and try to take a nap, but if I do, I cannot get to sleep at night.  I find the best thing to do is come straight home and do my homework.  I save lesson planning for first thing Saturday morning, after my first cuppa.  It is getting easier as I get more used to how things run.  If I get everything planned this year, next year is a coast!

     I LOVE TEACHING!  I am finally teaching hard core English Lit and I am loving it!  I have 4 months off for the summer and am talking to them about teaching art to students and adults on base.  A bit of extra money would be nice, and I can spend whatever I make working on vaca...guilt free!  The next post is a bit more about life in general here.